Lots of people ask us how we produce the food we do with the restrictions placed upon us. We don’t have any cooking equipment on our food truck. Our closest range/oven is 5 miles away at our commissary kitchen. We don’t give people numbers or call names; guests order, pay, and receive their food all in one interaction. The truth is that most of the reasons we do the things we do is because we stumbled into them and figured out the easiest way to work in our spaces as we went. In our most recent Patreon video, I gave an MTV Cribs-style tour of our facilities: the food truck, smokehouse, and commissary. …


We came up with this technique, which has now become our most signature cut, out of necessity. Before we opened the LeRoy and Lewis food truck in March of 2017, we had booked a week’s worth of SXSW catering events through friends and industry connections. They had all requested brisket on the menu and, since we had never had any problems sourcing from purveyors since starting pop-ups the fall before, we agreed and booked. When it came time to order briskets for the week, there were no briskets available from our purveyors that fit our sourcing criteria. The one thing that I wanted to separate us from other barbecue joints is that I wanted to know that all of our meat was locally and sustainably raised in Texas. Rather than go back on our stated mission at the first sign of difficulty, we got creative. We ordered beef cheeks instead of brisket and trimmed, seasoned, and smoked them similarly to how we smoked brisket. The result has landed our little blue food truck in the pages of Texas Monthly, GQ, Eater, Southern Living, and more. …


the only NYE hangover cure needed

My mom used to make menudo on New Year’s Eve in anticipation of a hangover as hearty as the beef feet enriched broth that signifies this classic Mexican stew. Cooking it overnight would perfume the house and my dad would complain about the “nasty” smell of tripe, hominy, and oregano. I can definitely see how some gringos might be turned off by the smell, especially since he was most likely nursing a hangover of his own, but to me it smells like pure nostalgia. …


a whole smoked fish from our latest Patreon video

After a long holiday season that started in early November taking Thanksgiving orders for 75 families and ending on Christmas Eve with guests picking up over 1500 tamales from our crew, I was in need of some mental relaxation. For me, there’s no better way to do that than by getting out in nature. Either on the water, the hiking trail, or the golf course, I love getting outside and breathing some fresh air.

Earlier in the month my good friend and fellow food truck owner Davis Turner of Huckleberry, a Gulf-sourced coastal cuisine trailer located at Circle Brewing in North Austin, asked me if I’d like to come down to Port O’Connor with he and his dad for a weekend of flounder gigging and fishing. I immediately said yes and started planning Christmas dinner around a Smoked Stuffed Flounder. …


photo by Brad Robinson

My family has always made tamales at Christmas time. My dad whips the fresh ground masa with fat, my mom makes red chile sauce and braises pork and beef overnight to make the filling. And then all the friends, aunts, grandmothers, and children come over to sit around the table and make dozens and dozens of tamales. The process itself, called a Tamalada, is a party complete with margaritas, nachos, Christmas tunes, and holiday spirit. When I lived outside of Texas and couldn’t make tamales with my family, I made them with friends. …


Turkey Noodle Soup, Turkey Tortilla Stew, Sichuan Braised Pork Skin

photo by Brad Robinson

Turkey Noodle Soup

4 qt turkey broth

1 lb cooked macaroni noodles

1 lb diced smoked turkey

1/4 C turkey, duck, or chicken fat

1 diced onion

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 carrot, diced

2 watermelon radishes, medium diced

1/2 head of napa cabbage, rough chopped

1 fennel bulb sliced thinly, fronds picked, stems discarded

1 bunch dino kale, rough chopped

1 kohlrabi, medium diced

1 pt cooked corn kernels

1 sweet potato, medium diced

Saute the onion and garlic in turkey fat until translucent and reserve.

Bring the turkey broth to a boil and season to taste with salt. Add all vegetables, return to a simmer and carefully watch vegetables stirring frequently, and cook until tender. Cutting the densest vegetables a little smaller and the greens larger will help all of them to cook evenly in the same pot at the same time.

Once cooked through, remove the vegetables from the broth. …


a Japanese full-blood wagyu A5 $2000 (raw cost) brisket

In our latest Patreon video I take subscribers through how we figure out how much to charge for our dishes as well as how we manage how much we spend on food as a percentage of our sales.

In our previous Yield Test post I describe how we use all of the pieces we trim off of our briskets and how that increases our yield percentage by almost 40%! Now we’ll actually put dollar amounts to those yields and see how brisket and barbecue can end up costing so much.

We source our briskets from Heartbrand Beef, a Flatonia, TX based Akaushi cattle operation that is producing some of the best and most honestly raised beef in the nation. We pay $6.49/lb right now for our briskets, which was up almost $1.50/lb since the COVID-19 temporarily crippled the meat supply chain back in the spring. If we were to simply throw out all of our meat scraps, our *true price* (the price we pay for a finished brisket after it’s been trimmed and cooked) would be over $10/lb. Since we do put to use all of the scraps and we get a higher yield, our true price comes down to a little over $8/lb. …


Turkey Mole garnished with queso fresco and cilantro

Few foods have a comparably difficult stigma attached to them like traditional Mexican mole. The rich and complex sauce consisting of dried chiles, herbs, spices, nuts, vegetables, and more confounds American cooks from coast to coast. Well, I’m here to say it’s actually not that complicated if we break the ingredients down into a few simple categories. Check out the step-by-step process in our latest Patreon video!

We’re all looking for something else to do with our leftover Thanksgiving turkey besides the traditional pot pie, turkey sandwich, or soup. …


To most Americans, Thanksgiving is a time to take a long weekend, watch football, and relax with all the food and family one can stomach. For us at LeRoy and Lewis, it’s the busiest week of the year. And even though we’ll be working long hours and our feet will be sore, we’re incredibly thankful that people trust us to deliver to them the most important meal of the year.

In our latest Patreon video, we display our signature Turkey Day special, the Thanksgiving Split. For the past few years we’ve sold this holiday mash-up the weekend before the big day and people love it. That’s our Thanksgiving Sausage (turkey/pork blend studded with dried cranberry and sweet potato and scented with rosemary and sage) split down the middle and stuffed with scoops of corn pudding, stuffing, and mashed potatoes. Of course, its covered in gravy. Since it’s a dish with multiple components and the recipe for that dish would actually be five separate recipes, I’ve instead reduced all of our Thanksgiving tips and tricks into a concentrated 11 bullet-pointed demi-glace. …


It pays to have friends. Sometimes they come to you with the most ridiculously marbled piece of meat you’ve ever seen in your life and say, “Hey will you help me cook this?”

In this case that friend was the Hardcore Carnivore herself, Jess Pryles. Jess is a meat maven and has her finger in so many bbq pots these days it’s hard to keep track. …

About

Evan LeRoy

Chef/Pitmaster from Austin, Texas

Get the Medium app

A button that says 'Download on the App Store', and if clicked it will lead you to the iOS App store
A button that says 'Get it on, Google Play', and if clicked it will lead you to the Google Play store